Istanbul is a city of two halves. After a few days you'll realise that the biggest divide isn't between Europe and Asia, nor is it religion, nor politics, it's not even the Kurdish question, but the beautiful game - football. Matches aren't for the faint hearted with stadiums erupting into demonic son et lumiers of surging white noise, hazy pink smoke and pyrotechnics. Galatsaray's Ali Sami Yen stadium has gone so far as to signpost the visitors' supporters' area with 'welcome to hell'.
If you don't have an opinion on football after a few days in the capital you soon will. Most of the battle is done between Fenerbace, Bestktas and Galatasaray, and armed with just these three words you can spark up a conversation with any Istanbulite. Turks have good memories and you're bound get an animated account of when their team last trounced yours. Currently at the top of the league sits Galatasaray, catch a bus from Taksim Square, head for Mecediyekoy and follow your ears.