Don't Miss: Cancun Attractions

Chichén Itzá: The most famous and the best preserved of the Mayan sites presents something of a headache to archaeologists. The architectural styles come form different civilisations that span centuries, pointing(though shakily) to a theory that a flagging Mayan settlement underwent a renaissance at the hands of the Toltecs.

The site is dominated by El Castillio a jaw-dropping pyramid dating to the ninth century AD. The structure acts as a cross between a compass and a calendar(365 steps in total, aligned with compass points) which casts a fascinating shadow play for the spring and autumn equinoxes(March 20 and September 21). Sunlight throws the shadow of the balustrade to mimic a snake slithering down the length of the steps on the spring equinox, and conversely in autumn the serpent ascends the steps.

The remainder of the site is no less enchanting, but hides darker secrets. The ball court is the largest in Mexico, and while we still aren't sure of the game's rules carvings suggest that the loser was knifed to death. Equally unlucky were those thrown into the sacred centone, a stunning natural well 60m in diameter. The 'mouth of the well of the Itzá people'(Chichén Itzá) is a two hour drive west of Cancun.

Isla Mujures: The ' Island of Women ' provides a soporific tonic to the bustle of its big brother, Cancun. Recent development means the island can no longer live up to its claim to be 'the back-packers Cancun', but life continues to tick by at a much slower pace and it's noticeably cheaper. The best way to explore the island's idyllic beaches is by hiring a moped. The island is only five miles long so it's possible to see it in a day but if that's not enough the island has a number of good hotels. Ferries depart every 30 minutes from Puero Juárez on the mainland.

Cobá: The ruins at Cobá are one of the best-kept secrets on the Mayan trail. Inexplicably the largest of the Mayan cities(once home to a population of 50,000) was virtually ignored by archaeologists until the early 1970's. Few of the estimated 6000 structures have been excavated and terraced pyramids, stone avenues and temples remain tangled in dense tropical jungle. It's the perfect place to test your mettle as a would-be Indiana Jones, so it shouldn't come as a surprise that it's a little tricky to get to. The best bet is to hire a car and prepare yourself for a bumpy couple of hours.

Playa del Carmen: Since Jacques Cousteau filmed the Arrecife Reef in the 1960's people have come here to dive in some of the clearest and most biologically diverse waters in the world. Admittedly the once sleepy fishing village has exploded, but it's also managed to escape the rampant development of its northerly neighbour Cancun. Ferries run from Playa del Carmen to the island of Comuzel, but in recent years the former has overtaken the latter in the popularity stakes. Aside from diving, lying on the beach and people watching there's precious little to do, and therein lies its charm.

Xcaret: While the juxtaposition of the words ecological, archaeological and theme park are usually enough to bring a grown man to tears(of boredom) Xcaret proves otherwise. Mayan for 'little inlet' the park is beautifully situated on the coast and encompasses a number of modest Mayan ruins and two crystal rivers(one underground) for snorkelling, plus opportunities for reef diving. The 'Eco' bit comprises an aviary replete with hollering toucans, sanctuaries for jaguars, turtles and butterflies and a dolphin pool. The re-enactments of Mayan ceremonies are admittedly slightly contrived, but suspend your cynicism and it's all just harmless fun. Xcaret is a 35-mile drive south of Cancun airport. Air-conditioned buses leave three times daily from Xcaret Tour Centre, Plaza Caracol(www.xcaretcancun.com).

Tulum: Perched on bluff overlooking the azure waters of the Caribbean the walled remains of Tulum are spectacular. The ruins are well preserved and hold the historical significance of being the largest Mayan coastal settlement, but it's the setting that draws visitors. One mystery is why the coach loads of tourists persist in visiting the site during the hottest time of the day when, by hiring one of the cabañas half a mile to the south, you can enjoy a memorable sunrise or sunset in relative serenity. Tulum is 80 miles south of Cancun on the coast road.

Cancun's public beaches: All beaches in Mexico are public, even though you might not get this impression from some of the island's more exclusive establishments. In practise you may have to walk through the hotel lobby, but you generally won't raise any eyebrows. The beaches in front of the Gran Caribe Royal, Hyatt and Sheraton are particularly pleasant.