Kakamega is the only remaining segment of the rainforest in Kenya, and it provides a welcome escape from the hot, dry savannah that now covers much of the country. The colours of wild orchids on the forest floor are matched by the exotic birdlife in the trees - it's home to more than 350 bird species(including the flamboyant regal swallowtail), 75% of the country's butterflies, and plenty of other flying things from mosquitoes to the huge hammer-headed fruit bat. More than 380 plants species have been identified, plus several primates including the rare De Brazza's monkey.
While the government nominally protects the area, a local ecotourism scheme is doing the real work of helping local people conserve the forest. A number of locals work as guides, taking visitors through a network of forest trails, and there are simple, locally-managed guesthouses and campsites. If you don't fancy the bumpy 400km drive from Nairobi, you can fly to nearby Kisumu.