Mombasa doesn't go out of its way to impress. It's this very lack of pretension, and the steamy tropical lassitude, that gives the city its charm - as well as a sense of community that Nairobi lacks, and its rich Portuguese, Arabic, Asian and Swahili heritage. In terms of monuments, the Portuguese Fort Jesus is the big attraction but Mombasa 's heart beats strongest in the Old Town, a lattice of mosques, old houses and lanes that slopes gently down to the harbour.
The Rough Guide team offers their tips, from Recoda(Mombasa 's oldest restaurant, serving massive portions of the city's finest Swahili food) to the Jain Temple, plus beaches and where to buy cloth(Biashara Street), crafts(Harria's Gift Shop on MoiAvenue) or tropical fruit(Mackinnon market). Find out the best places to stay, essential sights and what there is to do after dark. Everything you would expect from The Rough Guide.