Mombasa restaurants, food and drink
Mombasa 's history as a trading post has left a palpable imprint on its modern day cuisine. Dhows ploughing the Indian Ocean routes brought spices and recipes from the Indian subcontinent, and closer to home the Arabic influence slid down Africa's eastern seaboard as far as Kenya. Today this means that alongside the indigenous Swahili dishes you're as likely to find an excellent biryani as a rich Turkish coffee. Then there's the coast itself yielding a colourful and impressive catch and the equatorial climate which brings with it exotic fruits, many of which find their way into fish dishes. The city is bursting with restaurants which, on every criteria, are streets ahead of those in the capital, Nairobi.
Recoda V's Special Bokoboko
When it comes to Swahili cooking Recoda restaurant has been wearing Mombasa 's culinary crown for years. That is until recently. While Recoda still wins on the atmosphere stakes(its walls photographically document the history of the city) and the food remains both excellent and wide-ranging, it seems their patron has got a touch of the 'Gordon Ramsies'. Competition comes from Special Bokoboko further down Nyeri Road, which what it lacks in old-world charm is more than over compensated for by their consistently good food and convivial atmosphere.
Recoda and Special Bokoboko are both on Nyeri Road in the Old Town.
Lobster Swahili
If your wallet's sturdy enough to withstand a little punishment, then there are few places more worthy than Tamarind, widely regarded as Mombasa 's premier seafood restaurant. After a short taxi-ride over Nyali Bridge and down the divinely titled Cement Silo Road, what greets you are fine views of the city from across the creek and the house speciality, Lobster Swahili. The meat is removed from the lobster and sautéed in garlic, turmeric and saffron, before being returned to the shell and drenched in a tomato and coconut sauce. For reservations Telephone: 011/471747.
Pan
Pan has some thing of a personality disorder, not being sure whether it's a digestif, a breath freshener or a narcotic. In truth these triangular parcels of betle leaf(filled with a composite of sweet spices, chopped nuts, syrup and white lime) are a little of each. This Indian speciality is generally chewed for a good half an hour, but rarely swallowed. For an atmospheric initiation to pan Dilbahar on the corner of Bungoma Street and Digo Road is highly recommended.
Kilifi Oysters
Once plucked fresh from the waters of the Indian Ocean the epicurean fate of these bi-valve molluscs is a contentious one. Purists opt for a simple squeeze of lemon before shucking, for others this isn't enough, and these oysters are fated to arrive baked in a wine and garlic butter sauce and finished with chopped parsley and a smattering of Tabasco. A good place to find out which camp you fall into is Bella- Vista on Moi Avenue.
Kupaka
The Indian Ocean has proved something of a mixed blessing to Kenyan Coastal Cuisine. On one hand the catch is so fecund that it puts any British fishmonger's repertoire to shame. On the other this wealth of excellent raw ingredients has stilted culinary innovation, as with fish this good anything more than a quick stint on a barbecue would be overdoing it. One laudable addition is kupaka, a sauce made with coconut milk and tomato and lent a little zip with ground fresh chilies, lime and a hint of curry.
