The 'Crusader Isle' has some hidden aspects the brochures don't touch on, and Postcard from Rhodes is at the cutting edge of being just that - cutting. "Despite the volume of tourist cash pouring in by the annual bucketful, the island seems unable or unwilling to shake off a shabby and scruffy air," it says.
However, the author knows which concrete jungles not to get lost in and which paths lead to the best of the beaches. Avoid Faliraki - "if you have a two-watt bulb for a brain and an open wallet you will feel very much at home with the majority of visitors in this perfectly awful place." Instead, take advantage of the smaller beaches on the eastern shores by hiring a car or moped.
Visit the untainted village of Koskinou, noting its ornate arches and inhaling the sweet-smelling courtyards, and explore the island's classical past at the ancient sites of Kamiros. The medieval fortress at Monolithos and the enchanting Epta Piges(Seven Springs) are not to be missed.