Plaka, in the shadow of the Acropolis, is a chaotic jumble of architecture, with monumental buildings and ramshackle houses - it's one of the city's most charming districts. This is the place for people-watching from pavement cafés(it's said that if you stick around long enough, you'll see the whole of Athens pass through) and the sound of buskers and smell of flowers keeps your other senses working.
Athens ' glitterati pull up a chair outside Apostos(Panepistimíou 10), a classic ouzeri with an impressive selection of meze. For a more humble snack, head for Ariston, where you'll find an alphabet of pies from artichoke to zucchini. At night, watch the Acropolis' son et lumiére as you eat your meal on Strophi's rooftop terrace near the Theatre of Herod.