Giza aside, nowhere in Egypt rivals Luxor for monumental architecture. As with the Pyramids, it's the ancient Egyptians' obsession with death and resurrection that gave birth to the Theban Necropolis on the west bank, and the same sense of Pharoanic one-upmanship that gave rise to the palaces of the east bank. Making sense of all this history needn't be tricky. There are some 'unmissables', notably the temple complex at Karnak(a walled enclosure housing the three temples of Mut, Monthu and Amun, an open-air museum and the inviting emerald Sacred Lake).
On the other side of the Nile, you'll find the world's most magnificent cemetery. The approach to the necropolis is guarded by the Colossi of Memnon, two huge statues of Amenhotep(sadly ravaged by time, which doesn't bode well for those within). In the Valleys of the Kings and Queens most people spend an undue amount of time at Tutankhamun's tomb, which is fairly pokey and unimpressive. A better bet is the tomb of Nefertari, painted throughout and considered one of Egypt 's finest. As well as a historical overview, this site is crammed with tips on when and how to visit, photos and even a transcription of The Book of the Dead if you need a little light reading.