Finding exactly where Luxor 's heart beats the fastest isn't easy. In the morning the place to be is up above it all, getting a bird's eye view of the sunrise, Karnak and the Necropolis in a hot-air balloon. Back on terra firma the best, and cheapest, way to get about and escape the crowds is by bike.
After a day of sun and dust with the Nile winking at you seductively, you'll be relieved to find out that that The Old Winter Palace Hotel lets you use its swimming pool for a few Egyptian Pounds. Sunset sees more modes of transport being wheeled out, with the most romantic way of getting to the son et lumiere at Karnak(rated as the country's best) being by kalesh(horse-drawn carriage).
A less bumpy and possibly as amorous an alternative, is viewing the end of he day and the unravelling of the stars while bobbing down the Nile on a felucca.